Certain types of plants are hit the hardest in this type of winter — e.g., broadleaf evergreens, whose large exposed leaf surfaces are dehydrated by damaging winter winds.  I’ve seen numerous shrubs and trees, which typically have fared fine over recent winters, exhibiting a lot of damage this year.  These include Holly, Magnolia, Camelia, Cherry laurel, Rhododendron, Viburnum, Sweetbox, Nandina — the list goes on and on.  Most of this damage will not result in plants dying.  Soon, the dead foliage can be removed — branches/twigs that are dead can be cut off — to make way for new growth.  It may be several months — almost into summer — but many plants will rejuvenate nicely.  If in doubt about a plant’s viability, you can try to scratch the stems of affected plants, and if tender (usually green) tissue is present, the plant still has life.

Sarcococca hookeriana var. humilis (Sweetbox) Winter Damage

If you are now, or might in the future be, in the market for new evergreen plantings, take note of how things look during a terrible winter such as the winter of 2013-2014, and perhaps consider adding to your landscape those specimens that survived well.  Buxus ssp — Boxwood (many varieties), Mahonia bealei, and Cephalataxus harringtonia (Japanese Plum Yew), along with other conifers, held up exceptionally well.

Erica x darleyensis (Heath) in April 2013 – typical end of winter show

Erica x darleyensis — same planting — April 2014 after winter damage  – it had flourished for many years until now

For the past several years, plants that previously had thrived in more southern landscapes, have become commonplace in Maryland due to the generally warming winter trends.  These may not have survived this brutal winter (examples would be Crapemyrtle, certain Camelias, and the repeat blooming Azaleas.).  Some may need to be replaced.  Some plants may not exhibit their full damage until later in the spring (i.e., a delayed reaction).  Some plants are damaged from root rot (e.g., Rhododendron do not tolerate a lot of soil moisture, which they’ve had this winter). As the effects move up from saturated roots through the plant, it may exhibit a slow deterioration (and maybe demise) later in the spring.

In addition to plant damage or death due to the extreme cold and wet, many trees and shrubs were badly damaged by heavy snow and ice.  This happens in nearly every winter.  Just be sure to take stock of such damage.  Broken branches should be carefully removed, and any ‘stubs’ evenly sawed off at the appropriate juncture point to help prevent insect and disease damage from taking hold.

Note: all photos by Connie J. Bowers, Garden Makeover Company, unless otherwise noted.

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An excellent article explaining how salt damages plants has been published by Purdue University.  The article also includes lists of more salt tolerant plants and de-icing products recommended as alternatives to salt.   Purdue Article:  https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/id/id-412-w.pdf .  The following explanation is based on material in that article and elsewhere:

Salt is composed of sodium and chloride, both of which are toxic to plants in high concentrations.  When salt dissolves in water, the sodium and chloride ions separate, and the sodium ions in the salt replace other nutrients in the soil that plants need (potassium, calcium, and manganese), making these nutrients unavailable to plants.  Rock salt absorbs the water that would normally be available to roots, thus dehydrating the plant roots.  This changes their physiology and causes additional plant stress.  The chloride ions that are absorbed by roots are transported to leaves, where they accumulate and interfere with chlorophyll production and photosynthesis.  Further, when passing vehicles spray salt on plants, it can damage a plant’s leaves, buds, and small twigs, which in turn can reduce the plant’s cold hardiness, making tissue more susceptible to freeze damage.

Salt injury symptoms resemble drought or scorch stress.  Foliage can yellow and look stunted. Leaf margins may turn brown and curl.  Damage becomes evident through spring as new growth starts.  Evergreens react more rapidly to salt injury.  Conifer needles will turn yellow and brown.  If plants suffer leaf or needle damage only on the side of the plant facing the roadway or sidewalk, then salt damage becomes obvious.

Yews with damage from salt spray (Photo by Purdue University Extension)

What to do about salt damage?  If you have valuable plantings close to streets or other areas pelted by salt products, you can try to flush the areas with water (or, in the future, pile clean snow onto the area if that is still around).  A soil test can be conducted to indicate the actual soluble salt content, and if it presents above specified limits, gypsum can be applied to soil under the root zones of trees and other affected planted material.  This will help move the sodium through the soil.  If plantings near areas affected by salt have not survived, it would be prudent to replace them with plants that have reported salt tolerance in order to prevent a recurrence.  Deciduous planting may work better adjacent to roadways.  Some local jurisdictions that operate salt trucks are willing to reseed damaged turf grass.  (Unfortunately, this would be done in the spring, and reseeding is best done in the late summer/early fall, but it is worth a try).  Alternatively, the homeowner can re-sod the area that contains damaged turf grass. 

Be mindful that healthy plants can withstand salt injury more readily.  Therefore, it is imperative to always prepare the soil properly for planting, and to provide ample watering and nutrients (if needed) to promote plant health.

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IF YOU HIRE ANYONE TO APPLY FERTILIZER TO YOUR LAWN, THEY MUST BE CERTIFIED TO DO SO BY THE MARYLAND DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE (PREVIOUSLY SUCH CERTIFICATION WAS REQUIRED ONLY FOR INDIVIDUALS OR FIRMS HIRED TO APPLY HERBICIDES (WEED CONTROL) OR PESTICIDES (INSECT OR DISEASE CONTROL) TO YOUR PROPRTY.)  IF YOU TREAT YOUR OWN PROPERTY, YOU MUST ALSO COMPLY WITH NEW LEGAL REQUIRMENTS ON HOMEOWNERS CONCERNING FERTILIZER USE. 

Maryland’s new law contains various requirements on products sold and distributed in Maryland, to foster the use of products that maintain healthy lawns without excess amounts of nitrogen and fertilizer.  In addition, requirements are placed on lawn care professionals and homeowners who treat their lawns, beginning October 1^st.

Lawn Care Professionals.  If you hire a professional to care for you lawn, the Maryland Department of Agriculture (MDA) must certify that person or company in order to apply fertilizer in Maryland.   Certified applicators must be trained and pass an exam.  Certified fertilizer applicators will be published on the MDA website, and homeowners should refrain from hiring businesses or individuals who are not certified.  Businesses engaged in commercial fertilizer applications must be licensed.  Previously, similar certification requirements applied to entities applying herbicides and pesticides to lawns and gardens.  This law expands these requirements to the application of fertilizer on lawns.

Fertilizer Application Restrictions.  The new law contains many restrictions for fertilizer application.  Some of these would: (1) prohibit lawn fertilizer applications between December 1 and March 1 (and between November 15 and December 1, only water soluble nitrogen – no slow-release – may be applied to lawns at a maximum rate of ½ lb. per 1,000 square feet);  (2) require professionals to use University of Maryland recommendations about fertilizer; (3) require soil tests every 3 years; (4) limit individual applications (e.g., 0.9 pound nitrogen per 1,000 square feet and 0.25 pound of phosphorus per 1,000 square feet – these are also  subject to annual limits and conditional upon soil test results.)

Homeowners .  The new law requires homeowners to meet mandatory restrictions similar to those imposed on lawn care professionals, when applying lawn fertilizer.  Homeowners must: (1) follow University of Maryland fertilizer recommendations on applying nitrogen to lawns; (2) adhere to maximum allowable nitrogen per application (e.g., 0.9 pound total nitrogen per 1,000 square feet and 0.7 pound of soluble nitrogen per 1,000 square feet); (3) prevent nitrogen fertilizer from application on impervious surfaces (driveways, sidewalks); (4) prevent nitrogen applications within specific distances from waterways; (5) prevent fertilizer applications between November 15 and March 1, and when the ground is frozen; (6) prevent use of fertilizer if heavy rain is predicted; (7) prevent use of  fertilizer to de-ice walkways and driveways; and (8) prohibit use of phosphorus on lawns unless specifically indicated by a soil test or if establishing, patching or renovating a lawn.

Keep in mind:  it is important to be aware of and follow the new legal requirements and to make sure that any individual or firm you hire is certified and otherwise in compliance with the legal requirements governing land care.  There are significant monetary penalties for violation of this law.

You can obtain more detailed information from the MDA website: http://mda.maryland.gov/Pages/fertilizer.aspx

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See the before, during, and after photos of a grouping of ornamental grasses that we decided to cut back in early February this year.  The result made the nice stand of ornamental evergreen trees behind the grasses (3 or 4 varieties) really stand out for the rest of winter.   As shown, a power hedger makes cutting back such mature grass stands easy, though it is quite time-consuming to package all those cutting for disposal. (You can also tie the grass bunch together before cutting, with rope or duct tape, to keep the cuttings together).  Doing it now, leisurely, allows more time during the very busy early spring for the multitude of other chores.

Grasses Before

Grasses During Trimming

Grasses After Trimming

There are various other landscape tasks that can be done at this time.  Many deciduous trees and shrubs are best pruned now while they are dormant and their structure is easily visible.  Jump start garden bed clean up now, again to free up some time in the spring for many other things.   Hopefully, you’ve left many plants, with drying seed heads, in addition to the ornamental grasses, standing through the winter to provide interest and feeding opportunity for birds.  These too are likely beginning to topple and can be cut back.

You can also begin to remove old leaves and other plant debris sitting on the ground around plants.  It is, in fact, important to protect plants with compost or mulch, and often, fallen leaves contribute to this.  Also fallen plant matter decomposes and feeds the soil.  However, this debris, unfortunately, can harbor insects and diseases that overwinter in it and the soil beneath.  If left untouched, this debris becomes a prime suspect to attack your ornamental plants in the spring.  Ditto for clusters of fallen tree leaves that piled up after the fall leaf cleaning.  Breezes may have blown leaves up against shrubs and trees, and the large mats of leaves can also harbor pests and prevent needed moisture from reaching the base of plants.

You can start removing this material now, but do not leave bare ground around plants – they do need some protection from the cold.  Once temperatures moderate, you can finish the cleanup proceedings by applying compost or mulch around your plantings.  You may not need to pick up old debris under all plants.  Focus on those that are most susceptible to insects and diseases – roses for example, and other plants that have shown evidence of pest problems.   Keep in mind that pests will also overwinter in weeds that are around – such as winter annuals — and this is yet another reason to remove them promptly.

Winter is the “off-season” for gardening.  So, take advantage of those warmer days to tackle tasks such as these.  Your spring gardening chores will be easier.

The post Silver Spring Landscaping appeared first on Garden Makeover Company.

After the hose is drained, it should be coiled tightly (in a 24-36” diameter).  Place the hose on the ground and, starting with the end that attaches to the hose bibb, begin coiling (there is a natural direction – if it doesn’t seem to wrap easily, try the opposite way).  Coiling is easier when the hose is warm – so let is sit in the sun for a bit.  (Since it is typically too cold outside to warm up my hoses by the time I get to store them, I let them sit on the basement floor – after they are drained – until they warm up, before coiling them.)   Make sure all kinks are out of the hose before storing (or any other time).  Tie the coiled hoses to neatly secure them with rope or Velcro ties.  And, of course, remove and separately store hose nozzles and sprinklers.

Hoses are best stored off of the ground, on a hook or shelf where they get good air circulation.  Otherwise fungus can develop and cause rotting.  (Time and time again, when watering for folks, I have noticed a distinct mildew odor coming from a hose.    Spraying fungus on or around plants cannot be beneficial.)  It is also recommended to connect the male and female ends together to prevent insects from getting inside the hose (make sure the hoses are dry before doing this.)

This is the time to carefully insect your hoses for cracks or rotting.  Breaks in hoses are easy and inexpensive to repair.  It is worth investing it top quality hoses that are of ample size (length and diameter) and weight, that will not kink, and that will, instead, allow good water flow.   You’ll enjoy a lifetime or very lengthy warranty on the better hoses – so save the packaging card.  Before or after storage is a good time to inspect and replace washers.  Worm washers are the most frequent cause of annoying and wasteful hose leaks.

Important note:  evergreen trees and shrubs need to be watered through the end of December if they were planted during the year.  Therefore, draining and hose storage may need to be delayed until that time, or stored temporarily in a garage or shed to be handy for watering use until that time, when they can be drained and stored finally.  Lastly, if you shut off your outside water for the winter, please correctly drain your hose bibb – and  even if you have a frost-free bibb, the hoses need to be brought in to a warmer place during the winter – and just taken out to use as needed.

Read more on this subject in my interview by a Washington Post writer for an article on garden hoses that was published in many newspapers, including the Hong Kong Standard. Here are Excerpts from the Article.

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It is important to have a licensed tree expert – arborist  — evaluate your prized trees to recommend pruning or other care to ensure they maintain good health and vitality, but as I’ve experienced, trees have a mind of their own.  Be mindful that, of late, serious diseases have affected major groupings of trees, such as Ash, Oak, and Walnut;  therefore, it is imperative to have such trees (and others) checked for signs of disease.

It is important to look out for your trees and keep them in good shape.  One issue that I’ve witnessed time and time again – an issue that could have been prevented or can be corrected if caught early – is the issue of tree root girdling.  This occurs when roots at the base of a tree begin to grow around the main stem (trunk) of the tree and appear to be “strangling” the trunk.  This “self-choking” will cut off or restrict the movement of water and essential nutrients to the roots of the tree.  Certain trees are more prone to this issue – e.g., Magnolias, Pines, Lindens, and certain Maples.

Affected trees will not die suddenly, but will weaken over time.  They may exhibit symptoms such as early fall color, unusually small leaves, and dead interior branches.  Tree root girdling will likely promote insect infestation and disease due to the weakened structure of the tree.

What causes root girdling?  While not fully understood, this problem is thought to be the result of certain conditions – most likely due to improper planting techniques — that prevent roots from growing out and spreading in a normal manner.  One typical example would be a container-grown tree where the roots are forced to grow in a circular fashion inside the container.  If the roots of these trees are not correctly pruned at the time of transplanting, this circular growth pattern will continue and could cause girdling   The correct pruning method at time of planting such container-grown plants, is to score, or make several slashes vertically down the rootball to an inch deep into the rootball, and a couple of slashes across the bottom of the rootball 3-4 inches deep.

Alternatively, failure to dig a large enough hole for a bare-rooted tree, at time of planting, or planting a tree too deep, can also cause roots to grow in a circular pattern too close to the trunk.

As indicated, the problem usually starts when the tree is young, and symptoms are not evident for quite some time.  As the tree grows larger and the trunk expands, pressure against the base of the tree limit water and nutrients from getting to the leaves, and symptoms become apparent.

These issues speak to the importance of ensuring that trees are planted only by trained horticultural professionals who use proper methods, even if it takes more time (i.e., expense).    For example, it is important to identify the root flare and ensure it is at ground level when the tree is planted.  The width of the planting hole should be two to three times as wide as the rootball.

For existing mature trees, it is important to look for cases of girdling.  Take note that while girdling roots may be visible, they are often found underground.  If tree root girdling is noted, remedial action should be taken.  While removing a girdling root is itself wounding, if the tree is young, removing the root is preferable to taking no action, which will increase the likelihood of the tree dying.  Consult a tree expert if in doubt.

Score roots encircling root ball at time of planting to prevent girdling.

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