Certain types of plants are hit the hardest in this type of winter — e.g., broadleaf evergreens, whose large exposed leaf surfaces are dehydrated by damaging winter winds.  I’ve seen numerous shrubs and trees, which typically have fared fine over recent winters, exhibiting a lot of damage this year.  These include Holly, Magnolia, Camelia, Cherry laurel, Rhododendron, Viburnum, Sweetbox, Nandina — the list goes on and on.  Most of this damage will not result in plants dying.  Soon, the dead foliage can be removed — branches/twigs that are dead can be cut off — to make way for new growth.  It may be several months — almost into summer — but many plants will rejuvenate nicely.  If in doubt about a plant’s viability, you can try to scratch the stems of affected plants, and if tender (usually green) tissue is present, the plant still has life.

Sarcococca hookeriana var. humilis (Sweetbox) Winter Damage

If you are now, or might in the future be, in the market for new evergreen plantings, take note of how things look during a terrible winter such as the winter of 2013-2014, and perhaps consider adding to your landscape those specimens that survived well.  Buxus ssp — Boxwood (many varieties), Mahonia bealei, and Cephalataxus harringtonia (Japanese Plum Yew), along with other conifers, held up exceptionally well.

Erica x darleyensis (Heath) in April 2013 – typical end of winter show

Erica x darleyensis — same planting — April 2014 after winter damage  – it had flourished for many years until now

For the past several years, plants that previously had thrived in more southern landscapes, have become commonplace in Maryland due to the generally warming winter trends.  These may not have survived this brutal winter (examples would be Crapemyrtle, certain Camelias, and the repeat blooming Azaleas.).  Some may need to be replaced.  Some plants may not exhibit their full damage until later in the spring (i.e., a delayed reaction).  Some plants are damaged from root rot (e.g., Rhododendron do not tolerate a lot of soil moisture, which they’ve had this winter). As the effects move up from saturated roots through the plant, it may exhibit a slow deterioration (and maybe demise) later in the spring.

In addition to plant damage or death due to the extreme cold and wet, many trees and shrubs were badly damaged by heavy snow and ice.  This happens in nearly every winter.  Just be sure to take stock of such damage.  Broken branches should be carefully removed, and any ‘stubs’ evenly sawed off at the appropriate juncture point to help prevent insect and disease damage from taking hold.

Note: all photos by Connie J. Bowers, Garden Makeover Company, unless otherwise noted.

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An excellent article explaining how salt damages plants has been published by Purdue University.  The article also includes lists of more salt tolerant plants and de-icing products recommended as alternatives to salt.   Purdue Article:  https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/id/id-412-w.pdf .  The following explanation is based on material in that article and elsewhere:

Salt is composed of sodium and chloride, both of which are toxic to plants in high concentrations.  When salt dissolves in water, the sodium and chloride ions separate, and the sodium ions in the salt replace other nutrients in the soil that plants need (potassium, calcium, and manganese), making these nutrients unavailable to plants.  Rock salt absorbs the water that would normally be available to roots, thus dehydrating the plant roots.  This changes their physiology and causes additional plant stress.  The chloride ions that are absorbed by roots are transported to leaves, where they accumulate and interfere with chlorophyll production and photosynthesis.  Further, when passing vehicles spray salt on plants, it can damage a plant’s leaves, buds, and small twigs, which in turn can reduce the plant’s cold hardiness, making tissue more susceptible to freeze damage.

Salt injury symptoms resemble drought or scorch stress.  Foliage can yellow and look stunted. Leaf margins may turn brown and curl.  Damage becomes evident through spring as new growth starts.  Evergreens react more rapidly to salt injury.  Conifer needles will turn yellow and brown.  If plants suffer leaf or needle damage only on the side of the plant facing the roadway or sidewalk, then salt damage becomes obvious.

Yews with damage from salt spray (Photo by Purdue University Extension)

What to do about salt damage?  If you have valuable plantings close to streets or other areas pelted by salt products, you can try to flush the areas with water (or, in the future, pile clean snow onto the area if that is still around).  A soil test can be conducted to indicate the actual soluble salt content, and if it presents above specified limits, gypsum can be applied to soil under the root zones of trees and other affected planted material.  This will help move the sodium through the soil.  If plantings near areas affected by salt have not survived, it would be prudent to replace them with plants that have reported salt tolerance in order to prevent a recurrence.  Deciduous planting may work better adjacent to roadways.  Some local jurisdictions that operate salt trucks are willing to reseed damaged turf grass.  (Unfortunately, this would be done in the spring, and reseeding is best done in the late summer/early fall, but it is worth a try).  Alternatively, the homeowner can re-sod the area that contains damaged turf grass. 

Be mindful that healthy plants can withstand salt injury more readily.  Therefore, it is imperative to always prepare the soil properly for planting, and to provide ample watering and nutrients (if needed) to promote plant health.

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Cover Cold Sensitive Plants

Protect Young Plants from the Cold.    Should warm weather occur later this winter, it could cause early new bud growth on such shrubs.  If so, you should monitor the weather forecasts, and if dramatic low temperatures with frost are predicted, it would be sensible to cover the most affected plants (e.g., Hydrangeas) during such nights (using row covers, or simple bed sheets).  Regardless, most shrubs thusly damaged last winter recovered nicely in the spring, particularly if simply left alone, despite their wilted appearance, until the temperatures warmed up.

In Case of Snow….  If we do have prolonged heavy snowfalls, it is important to check on any fragile shrubs and trees that could be harmed.   Newly installed plants are particularly delicate and susceptible to damage from heavy snow.  If there should be a lengthy snowstorm, periodically – e.g., every few hours – it would be wise to go outside and brush snow off of shrubs and trees (yes, even though trees look nice with snow covering their branches).  You can also shake plants to dislodge snow.  It is best to use a broom and sweep the snow lightly upwards off of the branches, starting at the top of the plant and working down. 

Remove Snow from  Evergreens.    Broadleaf evergreen shrubs are most susceptible to heavy snow damage (e.g., Nandina, Rhododendron, Mahonia, Viburnum, Pieris, Boxwood, Japanese Holly, Cherry Laurel, Azalea, Euonymus, Aucuba, etc.).  Conifers — such as Yew, Juniper, Falsecypress, Arborvitae, and Cryptomeria – are a bit hardier, but still can suffer branch breakage from the heavy snow that accumulates particularly at the top of the plant.  In fact, if tall, such plantings can be bent down to the ground by heavy snow, and it is imperative to ‘release’ them.  Otherwise, the bark can be damaged from the stress of the snow.  They may be crooked after being released, but they should straighten in the spring.  They should be viable if addressed quickly rather than letting the snow remain and damage them.   If they are young and fragile, it is worth tying them to stakes or fencing temporarily to help straighten them.  Particularly vulnerable specimens might benefit from some physical support prior to the onset of winter, particularly if heavy snowfalls are predicted.

Leave Ice Alone.  If shrub and tree branches are covered by ice, rather than light snow, then it is best to leave that until it melts, because small branches could easily be broken by efforts to dislodge the ice.

Freezing and Thawing Cycles.  Alternative freezing and thawing can also harm perennials.  This can cause plants to heave out of the ground, leaving roots exposed, causing damage or death to plants.  If it becomes very cold and snowy, plants should be inspected after temperatures moderate above freezing.  If you see any plants that appear to be lifted above the ground with roots exposed, you should try to temporarily fix this by digging up some soil and placing it around the base of affected plants to cover the roots.  Later on – late spring – it may be helpful to dig out such plants and reinstall them deeper into the ground.  A good layer of mulch should protect against this occurrence.

Snow is an Insulator.   Snow on the ground at the base of plants is actually helpful by providing insulation.  So leave it be.  Just take care not to compact the ground adjacent to your plantings by walking through the snow that is in the gardens or near the trees (except as needed to remove the snow from those plants.)

Enjoy the beauty of snow in the landscape.  But as you head out to shovel your walkway or blow the snow off of your driveway, don’t forget to sweep the white frosty covering from your precious plantings to protect them for seasons to come.

Photo credits:  (1)  Jo Ellen Meyers Sharp (Hoosier Gardener); (2) Better Homes and Gardens

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The snow is pretty though

Not a typical sight in spring

Glad I enjoyed spring flowers just yesterday.  One of the nicest, but small delicate, Katherine Hodgkin dwarf iris may
not make it through the heavy snow fall.

Iris reticulata ‘Katherine Hodgkin’

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‘Jelena’ Witchhazel in February

Witchhazel hybrids. Hamemelis x intermedia. One of the more vivid cultivars – ‘Jelena’, for some reason, has come in more red than copper in hue this year, but this allows it to really pop in the dull winter landscape. This close-up photo highlights the interesting form of the bloom, which is reminiscent of crepe-paper or a spider. This large shrub or small tree has outstanding four-season interest in the landscape, including vivid fall leaf color, and warm-hued flowers in yellow, copper, or red hues to add some fire to the dull winter landscape.

Helleborus orientalis (Lenten Rose).  This wonderful evergreen perennial, which tolerates shade and is reliably deer-resistant, is blooming a bit late this winter.  This perennial spreads over time to fill in nicely through the landscape.  Shown here (below left) is a close-up photo to show how lovely a single inflorescence looks in the winter landscape (though there are many flowers ready on pop on the same plant).

Helleborus orientalis (Lenten Rose) flowers in February

‘Katherine Hodgkin’ dwarf Iris blooming March 1st

Dwarf Iris.  Sure, there are many early winter bulbs around the landscape, including several daffodil varieties, and snowdrops.  More unusual specimens truly make the landscape pop.  Here is the first dwarf iris starting to emerge.  This one is Iris reticulata ‘Katherine Hodgkin’, sporting unique powder blue and yellow petals with interesting ink-colored markings.   Each flower is a work of art.  These short flowering bulbs are nicely placed near the front entrance to be seen close-up as you walk by.

Erica (Heath) blooms for many months beginning in early winter

Erica blooms in shades of purple/pink and white

Erica x darleyensis (Heath) is one of my favorite mounding evergreen ‘subshrubs’ for a sunny spot. Most think it is ‘heather’, which is not as heat tolerant in this area. Erica is a great evergreen groundcover – a small rounded shrub that holds its own through the year – sporting nice short dark green needle-like foliage that is covered with bell-shaped pendulous flowers in mauve or white from early winter (sometimes as early as  October) through May. While I love the display of color during snow in winter (photo on the right).  The photo on the left shows a close-up of the very-summery hued blossoms gracing the landscape in February.

Crocuses – their appearance is a tease that spring is sure to arrive – someday, relatively soon.  This group of crocuses has been in bud for some time, and is just waiting for a tad more warm-up to burst forth in bloom.

Crocus: a signal that spring cannot be far off

          Photos by Connie J. Bowers

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See the before, during, and after photos of a grouping of ornamental grasses that we decided to cut back in early February this year.  The result made the nice stand of ornamental evergreen trees behind the grasses (3 or 4 varieties) really stand out for the rest of winter.   As shown, a power hedger makes cutting back such mature grass stands easy, though it is quite time-consuming to package all those cutting for disposal. (You can also tie the grass bunch together before cutting, with rope or duct tape, to keep the cuttings together).  Doing it now, leisurely, allows more time during the very busy early spring for the multitude of other chores.

Grasses Before

Grasses During Trimming

Grasses After Trimming

There are various other landscape tasks that can be done at this time.  Many deciduous trees and shrubs are best pruned now while they are dormant and their structure is easily visible.  Jump start garden bed clean up now, again to free up some time in the spring for many other things.   Hopefully, you’ve left many plants, with drying seed heads, in addition to the ornamental grasses, standing through the winter to provide interest and feeding opportunity for birds.  These too are likely beginning to topple and can be cut back.

You can also begin to remove old leaves and other plant debris sitting on the ground around plants.  It is, in fact, important to protect plants with compost or mulch, and often, fallen leaves contribute to this.  Also fallen plant matter decomposes and feeds the soil.  However, this debris, unfortunately, can harbor insects and diseases that overwinter in it and the soil beneath.  If left untouched, this debris becomes a prime suspect to attack your ornamental plants in the spring.  Ditto for clusters of fallen tree leaves that piled up after the fall leaf cleaning.  Breezes may have blown leaves up against shrubs and trees, and the large mats of leaves can also harbor pests and prevent needed moisture from reaching the base of plants.

You can start removing this material now, but do not leave bare ground around plants – they do need some protection from the cold.  Once temperatures moderate, you can finish the cleanup proceedings by applying compost or mulch around your plantings.  You may not need to pick up old debris under all plants.  Focus on those that are most susceptible to insects and diseases – roses for example, and other plants that have shown evidence of pest problems.   Keep in mind that pests will also overwinter in weeds that are around – such as winter annuals — and this is yet another reason to remove them promptly.

Winter is the “off-season” for gardening.  So, take advantage of those warmer days to tackle tasks such as these.  Your spring gardening chores will be easier.

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