The plant spreads by rhizomes, and it is useful where groundcover is needed to cover a sizable area, e.g., along the front of a border;  it is recommended for rock gardens.  The plant grows well in full sun to partial shade.  It will likely do best in a spot protected from hot afternoon sun, such as an eastern exposure.  The plant grows to about 10″ in height, and it will spread about 2-3 feet.  It can be divided every few years if needed.  It is mat-forming, and it can be controlled very easily if necessary.  It seems like a nice plant to grace the base of a mailbox close to the road.

geramium biokovo photo by: bestrunningshoe.com

Geranium Biokovo fall foliage color photo by: torontogardens.com

For the second year in a row, the PPA selection is a plant that I have not grown previously.  The 2014 selection was Panicum virgatum ‘Northwind’, and based on the PPA designation, it was widely available in nurseries this year.  I used it for the first time, and I was delighted that it lived up to its hype.  It is an ornamental grass that I will continue to recommend when a good upright, fiarly large, ornamental grass is needed.

I am hopeful that the Biokovo geranium will likewise be a pleasing addition to landscapes in our area, and I plan to add it to my repertoire of flowering spreading low-growing groundcovers with nice foliage color, for sunny areas, where I’ve used plants such as Plumbago, Dianthus, and Sedum.

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Certain types of plants are hit the hardest in this type of winter — e.g., broadleaf evergreens, whose large exposed leaf surfaces are dehydrated by damaging winter winds.  I’ve seen numerous shrubs and trees, which typically have fared fine over recent winters, exhibiting a lot of damage this year.  These include Holly, Magnolia, Camelia, Cherry laurel, Rhododendron, Viburnum, Sweetbox, Nandina — the list goes on and on.  Most of this damage will not result in plants dying.  Soon, the dead foliage can be removed — branches/twigs that are dead can be cut off — to make way for new growth.  It may be several months — almost into summer — but many plants will rejuvenate nicely.  If in doubt about a plant’s viability, you can try to scratch the stems of affected plants, and if tender (usually green) tissue is present, the plant still has life.

Sarcococca hookeriana var. humilis (Sweetbox) Winter Damage

If you are now, or might in the future be, in the market for new evergreen plantings, take note of how things look during a terrible winter such as the winter of 2013-2014, and perhaps consider adding to your landscape those specimens that survived well.  Buxus ssp — Boxwood (many varieties), Mahonia bealei, and Cephalataxus harringtonia (Japanese Plum Yew), along with other conifers, held up exceptionally well.

Erica x darleyensis (Heath) in April 2013 – typical end of winter show

Erica x darleyensis — same planting — April 2014 after winter damage  – it had flourished for many years until now

For the past several years, plants that previously had thrived in more southern landscapes, have become commonplace in Maryland due to the generally warming winter trends.  These may not have survived this brutal winter (examples would be Crapemyrtle, certain Camelias, and the repeat blooming Azaleas.).  Some may need to be replaced.  Some plants may not exhibit their full damage until later in the spring (i.e., a delayed reaction).  Some plants are damaged from root rot (e.g., Rhododendron do not tolerate a lot of soil moisture, which they’ve had this winter). As the effects move up from saturated roots through the plant, it may exhibit a slow deterioration (and maybe demise) later in the spring.

In addition to plant damage or death due to the extreme cold and wet, many trees and shrubs were badly damaged by heavy snow and ice.  This happens in nearly every winter.  Just be sure to take stock of such damage.  Broken branches should be carefully removed, and any ‘stubs’ evenly sawed off at the appropriate juncture point to help prevent insect and disease damage from taking hold.

Note: all photos by Connie J. Bowers, Garden Makeover Company, unless otherwise noted.

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An excellent article explaining how salt damages plants has been published by Purdue University.  The article also includes lists of more salt tolerant plants and de-icing products recommended as alternatives to salt.   Purdue Article:  https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/id/id-412-w.pdf .  The following explanation is based on material in that article and elsewhere:

Salt is composed of sodium and chloride, both of which are toxic to plants in high concentrations.  When salt dissolves in water, the sodium and chloride ions separate, and the sodium ions in the salt replace other nutrients in the soil that plants need (potassium, calcium, and manganese), making these nutrients unavailable to plants.  Rock salt absorbs the water that would normally be available to roots, thus dehydrating the plant roots.  This changes their physiology and causes additional plant stress.  The chloride ions that are absorbed by roots are transported to leaves, where they accumulate and interfere with chlorophyll production and photosynthesis.  Further, when passing vehicles spray salt on plants, it can damage a plant’s leaves, buds, and small twigs, which in turn can reduce the plant’s cold hardiness, making tissue more susceptible to freeze damage.

Salt injury symptoms resemble drought or scorch stress.  Foliage can yellow and look stunted. Leaf margins may turn brown and curl.  Damage becomes evident through spring as new growth starts.  Evergreens react more rapidly to salt injury.  Conifer needles will turn yellow and brown.  If plants suffer leaf or needle damage only on the side of the plant facing the roadway or sidewalk, then salt damage becomes obvious.

Yews with damage from salt spray (Photo by Purdue University Extension)

What to do about salt damage?  If you have valuable plantings close to streets or other areas pelted by salt products, you can try to flush the areas with water (or, in the future, pile clean snow onto the area if that is still around).  A soil test can be conducted to indicate the actual soluble salt content, and if it presents above specified limits, gypsum can be applied to soil under the root zones of trees and other affected planted material.  This will help move the sodium through the soil.  If plantings near areas affected by salt have not survived, it would be prudent to replace them with plants that have reported salt tolerance in order to prevent a recurrence.  Deciduous planting may work better adjacent to roadways.  Some local jurisdictions that operate salt trucks are willing to reseed damaged turf grass.  (Unfortunately, this would be done in the spring, and reseeding is best done in the late summer/early fall, but it is worth a try).  Alternatively, the homeowner can re-sod the area that contains damaged turf grass. 

Be mindful that healthy plants can withstand salt injury more readily.  Therefore, it is imperative to always prepare the soil properly for planting, and to provide ample watering and nutrients (if needed) to promote plant health.

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‘Jelena’ Witchhazel in February

Witchhazel hybrids. Hamemelis x intermedia. One of the more vivid cultivars – ‘Jelena’, for some reason, has come in more red than copper in hue this year, but this allows it to really pop in the dull winter landscape. This close-up photo highlights the interesting form of the bloom, which is reminiscent of crepe-paper or a spider. This large shrub or small tree has outstanding four-season interest in the landscape, including vivid fall leaf color, and warm-hued flowers in yellow, copper, or red hues to add some fire to the dull winter landscape.

Helleborus orientalis (Lenten Rose).  This wonderful evergreen perennial, which tolerates shade and is reliably deer-resistant, is blooming a bit late this winter.  This perennial spreads over time to fill in nicely through the landscape.  Shown here (below left) is a close-up photo to show how lovely a single inflorescence looks in the winter landscape (though there are many flowers ready on pop on the same plant).

Helleborus orientalis (Lenten Rose) flowers in February

‘Katherine Hodgkin’ dwarf Iris blooming March 1st

Dwarf Iris.  Sure, there are many early winter bulbs around the landscape, including several daffodil varieties, and snowdrops.  More unusual specimens truly make the landscape pop.  Here is the first dwarf iris starting to emerge.  This one is Iris reticulata ‘Katherine Hodgkin’, sporting unique powder blue and yellow petals with interesting ink-colored markings.   Each flower is a work of art.  These short flowering bulbs are nicely placed near the front entrance to be seen close-up as you walk by.

Erica (Heath) blooms for many months beginning in early winter

Erica blooms in shades of purple/pink and white

Erica x darleyensis (Heath) is one of my favorite mounding evergreen ‘subshrubs’ for a sunny spot. Most think it is ‘heather’, which is not as heat tolerant in this area. Erica is a great evergreen groundcover – a small rounded shrub that holds its own through the year – sporting nice short dark green needle-like foliage that is covered with bell-shaped pendulous flowers in mauve or white from early winter (sometimes as early as  October) through May. While I love the display of color during snow in winter (photo on the right).  The photo on the left shows a close-up of the very-summery hued blossoms gracing the landscape in February.

Crocuses – their appearance is a tease that spring is sure to arrive – someday, relatively soon.  This group of crocuses has been in bud for some time, and is just waiting for a tad more warm-up to burst forth in bloom.

Crocus: a signal that spring cannot be far off

          Photos by Connie J. Bowers

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See the before, during, and after photos of a grouping of ornamental grasses that we decided to cut back in early February this year.  The result made the nice stand of ornamental evergreen trees behind the grasses (3 or 4 varieties) really stand out for the rest of winter.   As shown, a power hedger makes cutting back such mature grass stands easy, though it is quite time-consuming to package all those cutting for disposal. (You can also tie the grass bunch together before cutting, with rope or duct tape, to keep the cuttings together).  Doing it now, leisurely, allows more time during the very busy early spring for the multitude of other chores.

Grasses Before

Grasses During Trimming

Grasses After Trimming

There are various other landscape tasks that can be done at this time.  Many deciduous trees and shrubs are best pruned now while they are dormant and their structure is easily visible.  Jump start garden bed clean up now, again to free up some time in the spring for many other things.   Hopefully, you’ve left many plants, with drying seed heads, in addition to the ornamental grasses, standing through the winter to provide interest and feeding opportunity for birds.  These too are likely beginning to topple and can be cut back.

You can also begin to remove old leaves and other plant debris sitting on the ground around plants.  It is, in fact, important to protect plants with compost or mulch, and often, fallen leaves contribute to this.  Also fallen plant matter decomposes and feeds the soil.  However, this debris, unfortunately, can harbor insects and diseases that overwinter in it and the soil beneath.  If left untouched, this debris becomes a prime suspect to attack your ornamental plants in the spring.  Ditto for clusters of fallen tree leaves that piled up after the fall leaf cleaning.  Breezes may have blown leaves up against shrubs and trees, and the large mats of leaves can also harbor pests and prevent needed moisture from reaching the base of plants.

You can start removing this material now, but do not leave bare ground around plants – they do need some protection from the cold.  Once temperatures moderate, you can finish the cleanup proceedings by applying compost or mulch around your plantings.  You may not need to pick up old debris under all plants.  Focus on those that are most susceptible to insects and diseases – roses for example, and other plants that have shown evidence of pest problems.   Keep in mind that pests will also overwinter in weeds that are around – such as winter annuals — and this is yet another reason to remove them promptly.

Winter is the “off-season” for gardening.  So, take advantage of those warmer days to tackle tasks such as these.  Your spring gardening chores will be easier.

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But, evergreens aside, deciduous plants tend to provide more variety throughout the year.  On a larger scale, deciduous trees such as Lagerstroemia, or Crapemyrtle (varieties like ‘Natchez’), Betula nigra (River Birch), Cornus kousa (Kousa/Chinese Dogwood), Stewartia pseudocamellia (Japanese Stewartia), and Acer griseum (Paperbark Maple) exhibit great winter interest with lovely ornamental bark (exfoliating or peeling).  Many people direct landscape lighting on these to highlight their architectural interest in the winter. Shrubs with this characteristic include Hydrangea quercifolia (Oakleaf Hydrangea) and Physocarpus opulifolius (Ninebark). If interesting bark is not your thing, what about winter flowers?  Hamemelis x intermedia (Witchhazel hybrid) is a small tree that does well in the shady understory (a native plant, as well, which means, among other things, it is very easy to grow and resistant to problems) blooming right along with the snow towards the end of winter.  There are varieties that produce primarily warm-toned flowers in either in yellow, orange or red, and the flower shape is very unique.  As an added bonus, these plants have a beautiful dense textured leaf, which produces vivid fall coloring.

You’d be remiss if your garden did not include Hellebores orientalis (Lenten Rose), an evergreen perennial, which begins its very long blooming period in February.  There are numerous varieties and colors, and its deep green interesting foliage lingers throughout the year once the blooms have diminished.  An added bonus:  the deer do not like this plant.  This is just a sprinkling of the different categories of plants that can provide interest in your landscape throughout the year – more than earning their keep.

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