The plant spreads by rhizomes, and it is useful where groundcover is needed to cover a sizable area, e.g., along the front of a border;  it is recommended for rock gardens.  The plant grows well in full sun to partial shade.  It will likely do best in a spot protected from hot afternoon sun, such as an eastern exposure.  The plant grows to about 10″ in height, and it will spread about 2-3 feet.  It can be divided every few years if needed.  It is mat-forming, and it can be controlled very easily if necessary.  It seems like a nice plant to grace the base of a mailbox close to the road.

geramium biokovo photo by: bestrunningshoe.com

Geranium Biokovo fall foliage color photo by: torontogardens.com

For the second year in a row, the PPA selection is a plant that I have not grown previously.  The 2014 selection was Panicum virgatum ‘Northwind’, and based on the PPA designation, it was widely available in nurseries this year.  I used it for the first time, and I was delighted that it lived up to its hype.  It is an ornamental grass that I will continue to recommend when a good upright, fiarly large, ornamental grass is needed.

I am hopeful that the Biokovo geranium will likewise be a pleasing addition to landscapes in our area, and I plan to add it to my repertoire of flowering spreading low-growing groundcovers with nice foliage color, for sunny areas, where I’ve used plants such as Plumbago, Dianthus, and Sedum.

The post 2015 Perennial Plant of the Year: Biokovo Geranium appeared first on Garden Makeover Company.

Certain types of plants are hit the hardest in this type of winter — e.g., broadleaf evergreens, whose large exposed leaf surfaces are dehydrated by damaging winter winds.  I’ve seen numerous shrubs and trees, which typically have fared fine over recent winters, exhibiting a lot of damage this year.  These include Holly, Magnolia, Camelia, Cherry laurel, Rhododendron, Viburnum, Sweetbox, Nandina — the list goes on and on.  Most of this damage will not result in plants dying.  Soon, the dead foliage can be removed — branches/twigs that are dead can be cut off — to make way for new growth.  It may be several months — almost into summer — but many plants will rejuvenate nicely.  If in doubt about a plant’s viability, you can try to scratch the stems of affected plants, and if tender (usually green) tissue is present, the plant still has life.

Sarcococca hookeriana var. humilis (Sweetbox) Winter Damage

If you are now, or might in the future be, in the market for new evergreen plantings, take note of how things look during a terrible winter such as the winter of 2013-2014, and perhaps consider adding to your landscape those specimens that survived well.  Buxus ssp — Boxwood (many varieties), Mahonia bealei, and Cephalataxus harringtonia (Japanese Plum Yew), along with other conifers, held up exceptionally well.

Erica x darleyensis (Heath) in April 2013 – typical end of winter show

Erica x darleyensis — same planting — April 2014 after winter damage  – it had flourished for many years until now

For the past several years, plants that previously had thrived in more southern landscapes, have become commonplace in Maryland due to the generally warming winter trends.  These may not have survived this brutal winter (examples would be Crapemyrtle, certain Camelias, and the repeat blooming Azaleas.).  Some may need to be replaced.  Some plants may not exhibit their full damage until later in the spring (i.e., a delayed reaction).  Some plants are damaged from root rot (e.g., Rhododendron do not tolerate a lot of soil moisture, which they’ve had this winter). As the effects move up from saturated roots through the plant, it may exhibit a slow deterioration (and maybe demise) later in the spring.

In addition to plant damage or death due to the extreme cold and wet, many trees and shrubs were badly damaged by heavy snow and ice.  This happens in nearly every winter.  Just be sure to take stock of such damage.  Broken branches should be carefully removed, and any ‘stubs’ evenly sawed off at the appropriate juncture point to help prevent insect and disease damage from taking hold.

Note: all photos by Connie J. Bowers, Garden Makeover Company, unless otherwise noted.

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An excellent article explaining how salt damages plants has been published by Purdue University.  The article also includes lists of more salt tolerant plants and de-icing products recommended as alternatives to salt.   Purdue Article:  https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/id/id-412-w.pdf .  The following explanation is based on material in that article and elsewhere:

Salt is composed of sodium and chloride, both of which are toxic to plants in high concentrations.  When salt dissolves in water, the sodium and chloride ions separate, and the sodium ions in the salt replace other nutrients in the soil that plants need (potassium, calcium, and manganese), making these nutrients unavailable to plants.  Rock salt absorbs the water that would normally be available to roots, thus dehydrating the plant roots.  This changes their physiology and causes additional plant stress.  The chloride ions that are absorbed by roots are transported to leaves, where they accumulate and interfere with chlorophyll production and photosynthesis.  Further, when passing vehicles spray salt on plants, it can damage a plant’s leaves, buds, and small twigs, which in turn can reduce the plant’s cold hardiness, making tissue more susceptible to freeze damage.

Salt injury symptoms resemble drought or scorch stress.  Foliage can yellow and look stunted. Leaf margins may turn brown and curl.  Damage becomes evident through spring as new growth starts.  Evergreens react more rapidly to salt injury.  Conifer needles will turn yellow and brown.  If plants suffer leaf or needle damage only on the side of the plant facing the roadway or sidewalk, then salt damage becomes obvious.

Yews with damage from salt spray (Photo by Purdue University Extension)

What to do about salt damage?  If you have valuable plantings close to streets or other areas pelted by salt products, you can try to flush the areas with water (or, in the future, pile clean snow onto the area if that is still around).  A soil test can be conducted to indicate the actual soluble salt content, and if it presents above specified limits, gypsum can be applied to soil under the root zones of trees and other affected planted material.  This will help move the sodium through the soil.  If plantings near areas affected by salt have not survived, it would be prudent to replace them with plants that have reported salt tolerance in order to prevent a recurrence.  Deciduous planting may work better adjacent to roadways.  Some local jurisdictions that operate salt trucks are willing to reseed damaged turf grass.  (Unfortunately, this would be done in the spring, and reseeding is best done in the late summer/early fall, but it is worth a try).  Alternatively, the homeowner can re-sod the area that contains damaged turf grass. 

Be mindful that healthy plants can withstand salt injury more readily.  Therefore, it is imperative to always prepare the soil properly for planting, and to provide ample watering and nutrients (if needed) to promote plant health.

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The Kousa Dogwood (Cornus kousa) is a wonderful tree if year-round interest is sought.  The white blooms gracing the lateral branches are followed by very large red berries danging from the tree’s stems.  Best to limb up this specimen to amply highlight the outstanding colorful exfoliating bark that makes this tree a standout in the winter.  For something more modest, perhaps closer to the house, the native Chionanthus virginicus or White Fringetree (tree-form or multi-stemmed large shrub) is a gem, with its unique ‘fringelike’ blossums set against the bright light green foliage.  Deutzia gracilis ‘Chardonnay Pearls’ is one of the most prolific white bloomers in the spring, as it first sports little ‘pearls’ for some time before they burst out into tiny white flowers covering the stems like waterfalls.  As the flowers fade, the colorful yellow to chartreuse foliage makes this shrub a nice contrast to darker green leafed plants.

The Pyracantha  is also covered with tiny white flowers in May.  The plant, aptly termed ‘Firethorn’ is a good security option up against the house, and it has lingering interest, e.g., when covered with brilliant firey berries later in the season.

Pyracantha (Firethorn)

Deutzia gracilis ‘Chardonnay Pearls’

Chionanthus virginicus (White Fringetree)

Cornus Kousa (Kousa Dogwood)

The post Snow in May? No, Just White Flowering Plants appeared first on Garden Makeover Company.

Forest Pansy Redbud

Kwanzan Cherry

Note that the Heath (Erica x darleyensis), which began blooming in late fall, is still displaying nice flower color, and the Mediterranean Pink variety matches well with the nearbyPJM Rhododendron, which is also blooming nicely this April.  The dwarf Fothergilla is now full of white blossums.  (We highlighted this shrub previously when it sported leaves on fire in the fall.)  While the pink and mauve displays are enhanced with a variety of similarly hued tulips and Chinodoxas, this little pocket of brilliant red tulips with black and yellow markings, seemed to appear out of the blue.

Mauve tulips

Fothergilla gardenii (Dward Fothergilla)

PJM Rhododendron

Tulips

Erica x darleyensis (Heath)

The post Spring Flowers in Silver Spring, MD appeared first on Garden Makeover Company.

The snow is pretty though

Not a typical sight in spring

Glad I enjoyed spring flowers just yesterday.  One of the nicest, but small delicate, Katherine Hodgkin dwarf iris may
not make it through the heavy snow fall.

Iris reticulata ‘Katherine Hodgkin’

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